INDONESIA - Buki Lewang experience

Wed 19/03/08Leave Medan at 4:30 after eventually finding a bank that would accept my Visa. Streets of Medan remind me of Vietnam insanity except scooters are replaced with cars with gigantic pot holes in the main roads - people love shouting out "Hey Mister" even if you're a girl, most people are hyper-friendly and fall over backwards to help if you look lost, or are trying to order food. Traveling with English Hairdresser friend Sarah, and Manchester Adam (who turns out to be a complete wanker and we ditch him later on, first time I met a fellow traveler I didn't like) We cram into a mini-bus taxi with 50 other locals all smiling at us heading to the bus terminal. On the bus we're pestered with locals selling all sorts of munchies and guitar playing teenage boys with bloodshot eyes buldging out of their heads, wearing rancid clothes and stinking like clove cigarettes. An hour after departure time - we leave. Crammed in like sardines; I've almost forgotten what personal space feels like - I'm sure it's very lonely though, I much prefer an old man rubbing up against my left side and old lady dueling on my right shoulder at all times :) We're off to Bukit Lawang - a national park and Orang Utan haven! We're promised to have close encounters with this man of the jungle, along with loads of other weird and wonderful creatures . We meet a nice guy on the bus who turns out to be a park guide - he seems very genuine and shows us his glowing CV full of recommendations from happy tourists he has shown around. We are charmed and sign up for a two day trek with our new buddy. We arrive after dark in the tiny riverside town of Bucket Lawang. Tiny guest houses dot the hill side along the river, their colourful lights glow warmly and welcoming for us. We all let out a big sigh - happy to off the bus and out of Medan. Next day we leave at 9am with new guide Endra, within a couple of minutes we bump into a gang of Thommas monkeys. These cool guys look like moheakened punk rockers and they entertain us with their high flying stunts through the canopy. Everyone is buzzing after having seen some wild life so soon into the trek. We march on in search for the infamous Orang-Utan past Cacao trees, Rubber plantations and Palm sugar trees. We spot some mischievous Marques monkeys with cheeky eyes and rapid movements.Then we spot her - about 6 years old in all her fiery red glory. An Orang-Utan slowly gliding through the jungle ahead of us, with silky smooth movement. She grabs hold of one branch with two feet and sways to the next effortlessly. She is an incredible sight to behold and I loose my breath as she comes close- within a meter of myself and stares into my eyes with equal curiosity, but with an air of superiority. Soon enough the mother swoops down with a tiny fur ball baby about 1 month old attached under her belly, it's eyes tightly closed but a vice-like grip on her mother. We are all mesmerized by this gentle giant of the jungle. Then as quickly and quietly as they arrived they swing off deeper into the jungle. All of us left feeling deeply privileged to have seen these wild creatures in their native habitat. Later on we bump into two more Oran-Utans who we are warned are semi-wild having grown up as pets illegally with humans. One of them, called Jackie, jumps down onto the ground as soon as she spots us and runs over, giant arms held high above her head, straight for us! She grabs my left arm with incredible strength I'm sure she could rip it out at any second - I'm terrified. Then she turns and jumps up on me, wrapping her arms tightly around my neck, and feet resting on my thighs. My fear melts, she just wants a hug! I close my own arms around her and give her a squeeze! Mind not really fully comprehending what is happening, the others in the group gasp, snapping a few photos. The guide throws a banana and Jackie jumps off me in pursuit. Then I realise the scoop - she was only holding me ransom until she got her banana! I'm buzzing from the close contact, but feel slightly used! A little further on we're accosted by a gang of gibbons, coal black and looking curious. The leader rushes toward us in typical monkey fashion, awkward steps arms above his head. I've left my bag on the ground to snap some pics and before I know it this big gibbon has firm grip on it, hoping for some food inside! I can see my passport, clothes, visa, ipod being swept up into the jungle never to be seen again! I make a dive for the bag strap and so begins the tug of war between me and the gibbon. The battle of strength begins, my heart racing as the gibbon snarls, flashing it's sharp teeth, eyes ablaze! I hear a tearing sound from my bag - this could all end in disaster with my self ripped to shreds and bag lost forever. Then the guide steps in with a big stick, thrashing it across a nearby tree and the gibbons surrenders. Phew - the tear in my bag forever a reminder of my near death experience with the gibbons of Bukit Lawang. To Be continued.....

Easy Lankawi Beach Bummin

15/03/08From Penang to Lankawi - Last night in Penang spent with new friend Sarah from England with a strong Yorkshire accent, professional hairdresser, cruise chip expert, super summery extroverted, Russell Brand fan! She's great fun and we catch up with some more POMS at the local food court called the Red Garden. Cheap grub and awesome 'cheese on toast' music played by a smiley Malaysian guy at a key board (He fancies Sarah and keeps giving her big smiles which sends us into fits of laughter) We neck some ice cold tigers and chew the fat. I'm recommended for the second time on this trip to go work in West Australia for the big cash money. Apparently the mining community is screaming out for workers! Sarah also gives me a great contact of a DJ who works on a cruise ship and recommends a life of cruising the ocean playing cheese on toast for the oldies! The life on a cruise ship sounds amazing. Several more tigers later, we request a few Beatles tracks from the keyboard player and sing and dance along to "Hey Jude." Wander back home to our hotel on "Love Lane" a notorious street in Penang which houses the oldest brothel in the area. It's crawling with rats and Lady boys! Next day is off to Lankawi, a famous touristy beach resort with Duty free status making it the cheapest place for a backpacker bum like me to chill for a few days. It's a 4 hour ferry ride from Penang which I spend cursing Tiger beer and listening to techno Malay aerobic music played at ear bleeding level. Stay at Gecko backpackers and meet some more folk, all from England. Later that night bump into some girls from Norway and we spend the night on the beach, skinny dipping in the warm water surrounded in illuminated algae glowing in the fullmoon all around us(actually I was the only one skinny dipping). Spend a week here, lounging in my hammock, reading books and eating great Malay grub. Next stop is Indonesia!

Malaysia truely Asia.

03/08
Woke up early to sounds of jackhammers outside window, and a few more bites from the bed bugs and midges. I'm sweating my balls off as the temperature skyrockets off the chart with the sun as the rising over the sky scrapers. Have a nice refreshing cold shower and breaky on the rooftop bar hangout. Plan of the day, do a walking tour of china town and little india, very close by the hostel - great location! Have great day exploring back alleys filled with Indian scents and chinese herbs. Kept amused by the constant bouchy bangra music from the lastest bollywood hits blaring out of ever shop in Little India. The women wear traditional Indian garb, of colourful silk barley covering their bulging stomachs- most have gold studs in their ears and noses and the little wee red dot on their forehead. Visit a Taoist temple and notice a long line of people spilling out of the entrance and into the street. The temple itself is tucked away down a narrow alleyway, for feng shuay perposes. Each person in line holds a dinner plate filled with a rolled paper scroll, an egg and a lump of fat while also holding joss sticks in the other hand. They appear to be offering this dish to a white lion figure whose mouth was open on this particular day and time. A nice women sees I look completely confused and tells me all about the ritual, she tells me how the people make offerings to appease the lion and chase abway bad omens and bring good luck (money) . They also cut out pictures of evil demon and stamp them with one foot on the ground- before taking another cut out of a good religious type dude and glueing to the closest pillar - the higher up the better. The air was thick with insense some and loud gongs and drums were being hit near the back. It was a great felling to be amoung all these spiritual people, and to have this authentic Malay experience. Also loving the genuine friendliness of the many Malay, Chinese and Indian people I met. Having been on constant scam alert for the past few months I'm wearing of these new 'friends' who pop up beside you and start up conversations. But after three people talked to me without asking for anything in return I relaxed and really enjoyed the company - my faith in humanity restored thank god!Stop for lunch in Little India dying to try the food I'd been smelling all day! Ended up with several curries served up on a large banana leaf and a freshly squeezed O.J. Of course there were no utensils so just tucked in with my hand (right hand only!) like the old geezer beside me - lovely sensual way to enjoy ya scoff! And only $3.50 - outstanding. After the meal it's custom to fold your banana leaf over towards you if you're satisfied with the meal and service- or away from you if you weren't. Grabbed a refreshing jelly.red bean/ ice drink for the walk home for RM1, stumbling back in the door a satisfied yet sweaty mess.

Siem Reap and beyond!

Traveled to Siam reap from my hotel in Pen ohm Penh in typical Cambodian style (cramped up in a tiny seat over bumpy dirt roads) met a cool fella from northern Island on the bus and we chewed the fat making the long journey wizz by.As soon as we arrived and got off the bus I was literally SWARMED by about 30 tuk tuk drivers (touts) grabbing at my t.shirt and bags yelling at me "HELLO MY FRIEND, WHERE YOU STAY TONIGHT!" And shoving their laminated hotel price card in my face. I was defiantly in no mood for this harassment and lost it, screaming back at them "BACK THE FUCK OFF ME!" It didn't make any difference in the slightest as yet more taunts came "CHEAP ROOM, VERY CHEAP $1, YOU COME WITH ME" Luckily my irish friend saw me in the middle of this hornet nest and swooped in to save me, as he had previously organized transport to a hotel from Penohm Penh . I jumped in the tuk tuk with him to his hotel, which was very nice indeed - if a little out of the way. The next day I woke up at 4:00am and had hired a push bike to ride out to Angkor Watt for the sunrise. The first mission was finding Angkor Watt from the town. I was riding through the pitch black forest without lights along some random dirt track, hoping for any sign of a ticket booth, the whole time thinking I was gonna run over a snake or some other small animal at any moment. After about an hour of sheer disorientation, I found it (thank god) and in no time I was zipping off to the Watt gates. Managed to find the a great spot to camp for the perfect picture of the sun rising of angkor watt reflecting in the water. I got the money shot, making the whole drama worth it! Spent the rest of the day in absolute awe over the beauty and magnificence of the Angkor temples - my favorite being Bayon with many pilers displaying the 4 heads of Brahma followed by the over grown ruins of Ta Prom. By 3pm I had spent 11 hours on the bike in the hot sun and I was absolutely spent, to say the least! At a near crawling pace, managed to find was back to the Hotel and crash in a heap on the bed.Met up with some friends from Laos and we spent the entire night catching up, in fact I only had about an hours sleep before I had to wake up to catch my early bus to the Cambodian/Thai border. I was on a mission to get to Bangkok to catch my flight to Kuala Lumpur on the 4th at 3:15! Got through the excruciatingly slow journey and rendezvoused with my good buddy Jen from Vietnam. We shared accommodation for the night as we both had flights to catch the next day. I managed to fit several Pad Thais and Banana Rotis in from the street stalls (plus picking up a few more cheap t's) before crashing out. Made it to the airport with plenty of time to spare.Malaysia truly Asia - here I come!

Long Overdue Update...

Wow, so much has happened since my last post I don't know where to start! I'll give you the quick rundown and fill in all the juicy details later!Vietnam: HANOIFirst impression - madness! What a chaotic city, no traffic rules, millions of scooters all honkin their bleedin horns. Can't walk three steps without being yelled out to buy a fake book, or take a moto/cyclo ride. Locals squatting on tiny kindergarten chairs munching on Pho (noodle soup). A tangled web of narrow roads in the Old quarter with entire streets dedicated to selling ripped off merchandise such as pirated DVD street - Fake Shoe brand Street - Clothes street - Bag Street and so on. The pollution is hard to take and the constant beeping drives you insane - you find yourself tensing up, clenching fists, on the verge of punching the next person you see! However after a few days to get the feel of the city you start to feel its charm. We were there during the TET celebration (Chinese new year) so things were even more chaotic than normal and all the prices had been hiked up accordingly. Although after some searching I found a dorm room for $4 a night (48 Han Ga st in the Old quarter). We were stuck in the city until the end of TET as a lot of the public transport was shut down for the holiday - or completely booked out. However the fireworks over the lake at midnight made the wait in Hanoi worth it. The next day we headed off to the hills of Sapa to see Rice paddy terraces and sprightly, colourful village people eager to sell you their home dyed wares. IT WAS FREEZING! And our Hotel had run out of gas, so as you can imagine there were a lot of pissed off, shivering tourists. But the trek around the villages and rice paddies, shrouded in mist was a magical experience. Returned to Hanoi and set off the next day for Halong Bay, sleeping on night on a boat or "Junk." Did some nice kayaking around the islands and spotted some pretty amazing caves (although some were a bit ruined with the tacky neon lights and fake waterfalls) Back to Hanoi again only to catch the overnight sleeper bus to Hue.On the bus I met an awesome Japanese girl, who spoke great English and was really friendly and interesting. We ended up travelling together for the week, seeing the DMZ - Vin Moch Tunnels, Hoi An, Mui Nei and Saigon. My favourite city had to be Hoi An. The old streets of this Japanese, Chinese and European trading town are gorgeous. You can wander aimlessly all day by the riverfront admiring handicraft's and traditional music performances then chill at night with a thick Vietnamese coffee on ice in hand. Hoi An is also the place if you wanna get things tailored. I didn't plan on buying anything, but after I felt the perfect fit of a $10 tailored shirt I couldn't resist, buying several more + some pants and a jacket. Sent it all home, should come in hand when I start work in the real world. From Saigon I jumped on a Mekong Delta Tour, seeing floating villages, fish farms, traditional candy making and a two hour row boat trip. We snaked our way up to the Cambodian border on the river, where it was a short mini bus ride to Phenom Penh.Booked into Okay guesthouse dorm room for $1 a night. Next day spent visiting S-21 genocide museum, where thousands of Khmer people where held and tortured under the brutal Khmer Rouge regime. It was very heavy to say the least. Today I hired a scooter with a fellow kiwi backpacker and we went to see the Killing fields where over a million where killed under Pol Pots orders. The giant stuppa of skulls is absolutely horrifying - I walked around viewing mass graves in silence and utter disbelief - how could this have happened so recently? It makes you think about the bruttle regimes in place today - where genocide is still happening.Current location: Phenom Penh - Cambodia, Riverside bar sipping on an Irish Coffee. Tomorrow I'm off to Siem Riep tomorrow to bask in the brilliance of The Khmer people at Angkor Watt.Peace!

Road less travelled to Vietnam!!!

Parted ways with Travel Bud Pete in Veng Vien and 'hit the road' or rather 'splashed the river' in a Kayak and headed down to the Laos capital with a bunch of other extreme folks in the tour group. The weather turned pretty nasty so we were guaranteed some awesome rapids. The scenery was spectacular on the river, the rain enhancing the rugged karst landscape. Approaching the first rapid we all got out of out kayaks to survey the route through the rocks and churning water. I wont lie to you, I was slightly terrified - especially when the guide wiped out demonstrating the rapid to us! We all managed to come out unscathed except for the Koreans in the group who didn't understand English and did the opposite of what the guide told us to do. We fished them out a little further down stream, and stopped in a cave for a BBQ lunch prepared by our guides, which was superb!
Another half hour downstream and we were picked up by trucks to take us the rest of the way (a little disappointing as the kayaking didn't last that long) But it was good to be dry. That night I split the cost of a hotel room with a fellow Kayaker, Alec from Roma Italy.

Next stop Vietnam, but via the road less travelled. Determined to avoid the '30+hour bus ride to Hanoi from Vientiane' also known as the 'bus from hell' I decided to go independently through the Nam Pho (Laos) / Ceo Teo (Vietnam) border splitting the trip into two nights with a sweet overnight train from Vinh city in central Vietnam to Hanoi!

Anyone reading this wanting to do the same - I would definitely recommend it! Costs a little bit more, but it's a hell of an adventure and you meet some wonderful local people. Here's the itinerary.
Leave Vientiane Guest house at 5:00am to the southern bus station (9km out of town about 50,000kip tuk tuk ride) catch a bus to Lak Sao (70,000, 7 hours) stay night in guest house. Next day hitch a ride to the boarder, say farewell to Laos and.....wait for it....."GOOOODD MORNING VIETNAM!"
Find someone to give you a lift from the boarder to the nearest town Tay Song (watch out for overcharging and being dropped off in the middle of nowhere on this ride) from Tay Son it's a bus ride to Vinh - nearest city on the main trunk line. From Vinh jump on the back of a motorbike taxi and get dropped off at the train station. Book overnight sleeper train to Hanoi, grab a bowl of noodle soap at the station while ya wait then hop on. It's a comfy 7 hour ride to Hanoi. The people in my cabin were all heading up north for Tet - Vietnamese/Chinese new-year! They offered me loads of food and drink, and we had some great banter with very few words being understood by either party.

Hanoi is an INTENSE city, Chaotic, Loud, Raw and with MILLIONS OF SCOOTERS! today I wandered aimlessly getting lost through an entangled web of narrow streets in the Old Quarter, saw a water puppetry show and had a great Salad buffet for Lunch which should keep me going for dinner too.

Until the next update!

Tu'be or not Tu'be

Who would have thought inner tubes could be so much fun! Take one inflated tube, park your ass in it and float your way down 5km stretch of the Nam Song river in Veng Vien, stopping off at various river side bars along the way, where the music is pumping, beer laos flowing and people are swinging off horendously high ropes and flying foxes into the river. After a few beers my confidence was soaring and decided it was time to attempt the back flip off the rope swing! After a few belly flops and various degrees of success I managed to nail it! After that all my friends followed suit and in no time at all we were challenging each other to other crazy stunts like double backflips, front flips and stylee air! Whenever someone screwed up and slammed hard on their back or front, he/she recieved loud harmonious "ooooowwwwwssss" from the crowd on the shore.
We had only floated less than a km down the river and the sun was going down, we had to cut our journey short with a tuk tuk back to town.
With some new found friends on the river we celebrated the full moon at the local "Smile Bar" untill the 11:30pm curfew. Sleept like a log!
Next day my australian friends Liam and Mark and myself hired scooters for three days and headed off East to the city of Phonsovan to see the mysterious plain of Jars.
More on that next post :)